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We arrive in Lijiang fresh from a few days in the stunning mountain countryside that surrounds it. As our four-wheel-drive traces the banks of the Yangtze River and descends through the valleys of the Qianhu Mountains, the setting sun casts the landscape in a misty shroud. Every few dozen kilometres we spot another house light.
They twinkle at us from the other side of the ravine, studded in the side of the darkening cliff. Among us, a mood of serenity and awe sets in. In remotest China, the population is sparse, and road travel has its own rhythm. A few hours later, we are jolted back to reality when we pull into Lijiang's Old Town. It's Saturday night and the mood is anything but sombre.
The snaking cobbled streets are choked with travellers, and people spill out from the bars and cafes. A night on the town is not my first preference, but it's our last chance before we travel onward, and after almost a week in a quiet guesthouse on the edge of a pristine alpine lake, my two travelling companions are keen for some action.
Our mission? To sniff out the best of Lijiang's nightlife. The UNESCO World Heritage-listed city, in China's south-western Yunnan province, is best known for its charming canals, weeping willows and two-storey mudbrick houses built into the hillside by the Naxi minority. Some canals, dating years, are still in use, and the gentle sound of water is a constant in the Old Town.
Because Yunnan shares borders with Myanmar, Laos and Vietnam, Lijiang has long been an outpost for explorers and travellers. It was a trade centre for tea and silk, and a meeting point for the dozens of ethnic minorities who lived in the mountains around it. Tourist numbers to Lijiang have doubled in the past year, from 4 million to 8 million. It's not hard to understand why. The city has a mild climate and relaxed air that makes it more like south-east Asia than mainland China.