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Fresh off the back of a local boat, how can we refuse — Coffin Bay is famous around the world for its oysters. The appointed shucker explains that when he bought the appropriate hardware at a local store he was told that inexperienced shuckers always shed blood, and it has proved to be exceptionally true in his case.
It turns out to be brilliant value. These things usually come with lots of chips to fill out any vacant real estate on the plate, but not here. The seafood is extensive, fresh and delicious. Most people driving to Perth from Melbourne make two mistakes at Port Augusta. What they should have done is mosey on down the Eyre Peninsula to Port Lincoln. And then you get to drive up to the idyllic Streaky Bay. Fairly average accommodation though, the motel just up the road is better.
Ceduna is another surprisingly pleasant seaside village and you should have coffee here and use your phone, because between here and Norseman, km away, the coffee is mostly instant and phone coverage is scant to non-existent. There are sections of the highway that double as runaways for the flying doctor and the longest straight stretch of road in Australia, But the big attraction of the crossing, including the km of the treeless Nullarbor all of it in South Australia is its sheer vastness.
Lots of the roadhouse staff seems to consist of backpackers who have run out of money. At Caiguna I order the mixed grill and get enough meat to feed a battalion. Balladonia, the last roadhouse before Norseman, has a reputation, staunchly upheld, for the most expensive fuel on the crossing but the little museum marking the crash of Skylab in the area in is worth a visit.
The local council sent NASA a fine for littering. Kalgoorlie is a surprisingly sophisticated town these days with great coffee and all mod cons, but it clings tightly to its rough and often ribald past, the brothels along Hay Street being more about tourism than sex these days.